Freitag, 2. November 2012 | Florian Schmidbauer | Nord- und Südamerika
Imagine having ridden almost 5,000 kilometres through the southern parts of Chile and Argentina. Imagine having experienced any kind of road surface from freshly paved asphalt roads to tricky gravel roads and sandy tracks. Imagine scenery changing several times a day and showing you everything from wide open farmland to dense forest and lakes being so colourful that one could think nature has been photoshoped.
Imagine being told about cold, rain and wind being so strong that it could just blow you off your motorcycle and facing sunshine and a nice breeze instead. And imagine a group of bikers from all over the world, who did not know each other at the beginning of the trip but would get friends in a minute to share all this beautiful moments and to help each other out of the dust.
All that and so much more weˋve had the pleasure to experience and even if we will tell as much as we can to friends and family at home most of our memories and emotions will just be saved in our hearts because some things are just too incredible that words and pictures canˋt do justice to what we have witnessed on this once of a lifetime motorcycle tour to Patagonia!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 18: Rio Grande - Punta Arenas
It's the very last day of our motorcycle tour and the most disappointing one too. Not that you get us wrong - the day's been beautiful and memorable. But having the last day of such a trip HAS to be disappointing.
After taking off in the morning we get to ride the last 110 km of off-road. And still, after having seen so much gravel the road stays challenging and attention is needed.
Good that we have enough time to have a little rest after lunch. Even the youngest rider in the group is exhausted after 18 days in the saddle...
Once arriving in Punta Arenas we have a few more minutes of navigating our bikes through the buzzling city traffic. Is it really over now? No one in the group can believe that this amazing tour finally came to an end and similar to the Gaucho we've seen earlier today I am driving home my sheep and make sure all of them return safe and sound.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 17: Ushuaia - Rio Grande
So having reached the end of the world one could think the adventure was over right? Not right, even on our last two days back to Chile - in order to turn in our bikes - we've got plenty of great riding and fascinating scenery.
The first piece leads us direction north all through Ushuaia. Wonderful trees, cleared fields and some fascinating views out to the sea accompany our way.
And even if we've been on this road before we still stop and take some last pictures.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 16: Ushuaia
Going all the way from Osorno to Ushuaia we thought we would deserve a day of ˋrestˋ. Of course, having a day of rest on this tour means fascinating riding and some unforgettable moments being involved.
First stop: Estancia Haberton - here weˋre going to do a boat ride to visit a penguin colony on an island close by.
Theyˋre so cute - we wish we could take one home as a souvenir.
Another two hours of probably the dustiest riding weˋve had on this tour later we reach the end of Ruta 3 - the famous picture below just had to be taken!
What a tour!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 15: Cerro Sombrero - Ushuaia
When asking the group how the end of the world would look like we got all the different kind of answers. Some said the landscape would get flat and boring and some warned from an ˋedgeˋ we should not run over with our bikes...
Well, that we would see enormous mountains on our way to Ushuaia that is something nobody expected.
Johannes does not seem too disappointed by having another few kilometres of great curves up and down those mountains.
So here we are, ladies and gentlemen, may I have your attention: Almost 5,000 kilometres on asphalt and all kind of gravel and numerous potholes and dusty moments later we finally reach Ushuaia! There will be a party going on tonight to celebrate that moment...
and of course to cheers to the birthday of our beloved group member Richard! Congratulations!!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 14: Puerto Natales - Cerro Sombrero
Our ride to Cerro Sombrero starts with a nice coffee stop at a tiny little coffee shop just next to the route. Weˋve already seen a group of bikers coming the other way so we guess, the end of the world canˋt be that far.
Strenghtening ourselves with tons of coffee and cake we soon move on since we still have some hours of riding today...
And of course, we should not miss the ferry taking us over to fireland. Ushuaia we come!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 13: Puerto Natales
What we are going to experience today is something very special and a day belonging to the TOP 3 of the total trip - our ride through Torres del Paine National Park...
Luckily the ride today starts with some soft off-roading along wide straightaheads and with enough time to look at the fascinating scenery around.
After about two hours of riding we reach the entry gate of the national park. The view awaiting us is so breathtaking and even days after Jörn is still smiling about that wonderful kodak moment.
71 kilometres to go until we meet for lunch - it's actually the shortest 71 kilometres any person in the group has ever done.
Later in the afternoon the riding is getting more demanding. A rugged route with hairpin gravel roads characterizes our ride now.
And even if the ride takes all our concentration we do not forget to stop and to explore the flora, fauna and animals in Torres del Paine.
It's been a full day of off-road and one of the most demanding and fascinating ones too. Riding a motorcycle through the national park and enjoying the ride as well as the nature and scenery around is the perfect combination for an unforgettable day - we love the dust!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 12: El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Shortly after leaving the buzzling tourist town of El Calafate we switch on our ipods and lean back on our bikes. The wide, curvy roads we take are just a good warm up for the day.
At our first picture stop already we directly run into a bus of Argentinian tourists. You better have your camera ready that's going to be a longer photo shooting.
A good relaxed ride later and after having had some coffee and picture stops we finally get to see the first official road sign for Ruta 40 before we arrive in Puerto Natales.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 11: El Calafate
Ladies and gentlemen, today we´re gonna present you another amazing highlight on our trip. For sure you will have heard about Perito Moreno already? Forget everything you ever heard and see and come here yourself to have a look on this spectacular glacier.
Located about 70 kilometres from El Calafate we at first hold ourselves back and enjoy the number of twisties and turns leading up to the glacier.
And then - all of a sudden Perito Moreno becomes visible at the horizon. Every bike rider should get a warning riding up there - the first glance on that glacier can just blow you off your bike.
Spending about 4 hours walking around Perito Moreno we get to see (almost) every part of it. Some of us are waiting in silence for some pieces to break off and fall - others can´t stand still and get the memory card of their cameras filled with tons of incredible pictures.
Having had such an outstanding day we celebrate our second rest day in El Calafate with some grilled lamb at night. Cheers!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 10: El Chalten - El Calafate
Leaving Fitz Roy and his magic charme behind the next morning we start our days ride to El Calafate. What will us expect there? Well,... have a look yourself.
After about two hours of riding we hit our first stop this morning. In Hotel Laledna we are supposed to have coffee and a nice rest in the sun. It was soooo nice and warm...
Some more beautiful riding later we stop again to breath in the scenery and to take pictures of the mountain ranges surrounding us.
All in all the day has been just right with not too much of exhausting riding but enough time to relax and remember that sometime, you have to sit down and enjoy.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 9: La Angostura - El Chalten
On a 20 day motorcycle tour going half way through a country I guess there must be days less spectacular than others. So today that could be such a day. The scenery still reminding of the wideness of Nevada and the roads being unpaved we make our way to El Chalten.
Hitting a pretty tricky pothole Glen unfortunately had to stop and wait for our Chilenean mechanic - Victor. Knowing that Victor is chasing our group with the van and carrying spare parts as well as tools keeps us feeling good riding all day long without seeing any traffic or any other people.
The rest of the group already waiting at our lunch stop for the guys repairing the tyre we notice that the bakery we´ve supposed to have lunch is closed. No problem, that about 50 people village has a fantastic supermarket and we get ourselves fed with energy drinks, joghurt and tons of pappas frittas (which is potato chips).
Shortly after lunch the pavement starts again and anyone in the group would lie if he said he felt sad about it.
Our next stop is supposed to be in El Chalten, located at the foothill of Fitz Roy that little town did not even exist 20 years ago. Johannes... stop... wait for us - we all want to see Fitz Roy when coming around the next corner.
So here it is. We´ve heard about it, we´ve seen pictures already and we knew we would get there. But looking at it with your own eyes is something you can not put into words... so guess how we feel when looking at Willi´s, and the two Michael´s faces!
Alright, let´s get to El Chalten. The view is even better there!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 8: Cochrane - La Angostura
We are starting early today since we have to ride quite a bit. So leaving our wonderful overnight stop in La Angostura we immediately continue with some demanding off-road riding. Today almost all of our way will be unpaved until we reach the Estancia in La Angostura - a place so far off everything that it feels being on the moon.
The first portion of our ride goes through fascinating scenery and along enormous rivers...
and we ride along one lane tracks up and down beautiful hills - what a blast!
The few Guanaco we meet along the route are far less interested in our group than we are in watching them.
Half the day is over already but still half the day of todays ride has to be done. The next hundreds of kilometres is going pretty much straight ahead which leaves enough time to watch the scenery descending from snow-capped mountains to Nevada like desert.
What an exhausting day that has been. Arriving at our overnight stop - the Estancia - we are really happy to have a rest and a barbecue waiting you´ve never had before! Yummie!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 7: Coyhaique - Cochrane
Having prayed to the motorcycle god for just a little bit of sunshine we really get not disappointed today. Well, the morning still feels a bit freeezing with -1.5 °C but only a few hours after the sun comes out - just in time to look at a number of amazing hairpin curves...
Going a big number of kilometres each day the scenery keeps changing several times a day. Some people in our group say they have seen the Rocky Mountains already, others say they felt like being in Norway, the Alps and many other places!
At the latest by noon, after having had a delicious sandwich in that tiny little fishing village Dan is finally convinced that we won't see any rain today. So he tries hard to get rid of his rain gloves...
Another short gas stop and we continue our days ride.
As the riding is getting more and more challenging we have to concentrate 100% on the road. But still, we take some time to stop and enjoy the view...
It's just unbelievable...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 6: Puyuhuapi - Coyhaique
Well, our day today could be told in two words: "no comment". Have you ever seen 14 people trying to find shelter from the rain in a bus stop?
If there have been a bus coming our way I bet 14 people had changed the bike for a bus ride in a minute...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 5: Esquel - Puyuhuapi
The absolute main highlight of the day is the ride itself. Once you get used to so much off-road the riding feels pretty easy.
We longed for that river crossing a long long ... long time. Some of us (that´s Walt on this picture) take it with high speed...
... and some of us (that must be Glen) are even going a little bit faster.
Something we tell each other at almost every briefing is to stop every now and then to enjoy the fascinating scenery.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 4: Bariloche - Esquel
Today more than 50 km of gravel - we are excited! So get up guys - finish your coffee - we have to go...
Look at that scenery: Lago Puelo is just the right spot for a nice and welcome break.
Having done almost 4 days already some of us feel a little tired. Good that the sun shines to have a little rest in the grass.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 3: Bariloche
Having our first rest day on day 3 already we are not really up for a rest. So we jumped on our bikes and did an amazing rest day ride in and around Bariloche.
From top of this mountain you can see surely one of the most impressive landscapes to find in SA.
Actually our group consists of 14 riders plus the support crew - those who did that demanding rest day off-road ride we call the "hardcore guys in the group".
So, get's back to the hotel - a refreshing boot beer is waiting.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 2: Pucon - Bariloche
Keeping the volcano always in sight we make our way through gravel and sand...
That is our first border crossing from Chile to Argentina. About one hour and several stamps later we finally enter Argentina...
The first 140 kilometres of off-road are an experience. About 1,800 km more to come...
That kind of bridge-crossing looks more adventurous than it actually is. Michael is just practicing his riding...
Our tour guide Florian at a nice picture stop. The waterfall behind looks small but is huge when getting closer.
We call that picture "picturing people taking pictures" - bikers overwhelmed by the beauty of South America.
So, that's it for now - more news will come soon!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
DAY 1: Osorno - Pucon
Bikers welcome to our live blog of the Edelweiss Bike Travel Patagonia motorcycle tour.
14 enthusiastic bike riders from the US, Canada, Switzerland, Germany and Austria as well as our German tour guide and Chilenean mechanic are part of our group to "el fin del mundo" - the end of the world.
Having survived a 13 hour flight (10 hours for our North American friends) the group finally arrives in Osorno/Chile - a welcome briefing and motorcycle take over later we finally take off...
Being prepared for the worst we actually get surprised by the weather on our very first day already. From far away we can see the snow-capped top of volcanoe Villarrica. Being surrounded by a bright blue sky this vista blows us away in a minute.
The ride to Pucon, our destination for today, is actually a great warm-up for the next three weeks. Amazing roads and incredible vistas belong to the main highlights today. And, another highlight is surely our lunch directly at lake Villarrica - with loads of fresh fish and some good laughs with our new-found friends.
By the way, that is Victor - our ever-smiling Chilenean mechanic. He speaks "motorcycle" at its best!
Some last pictures done at Lake Villarrica we shortly take off to make our way to Pucon - volcanoe Villarrica always in sight we finally arrive in Pucon and celebrate the first fond memories of this trip.
More news and pictures follow soon - stay tuned - as we do..