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St. James Way: Tapas, Peaks and Turns (CBS2302)

Thursday, October 5, 2023 | Nicolas Martin / Bernhard Hofmann | Europe

Everyone knows the Way of St. James, or "Camino de Santiago". And yet everyone means something a little different, because the collective term actually only refers to all pilgrimage routes with the goal of reaching the city of Santiago de Compostela. And so, in mid-September, 9 travellers met near Madrid to set out on their own Way of St James with Edelweiss. In the following 14 days, they set off from Madrid towards the Basque country, then criss-crossed the north of Spain to the place of pilgrimage that gives it its name and, after a detour via Portugal, back to Madrid.

Day 1: Arrival in Alcalá de Henares

We, Nicolas, Bernhard and the entire Edelweiss Team, welcome our "motorbike pilgrims" from Australia, Germany, South Africa and the USA. Together we will follow in the footsteps of the pilgrims on our motorbikes during the next days to reach Santiago de Compostela after nine days of riding. After the arrival of the motorbikes, we will go to the Welcome Briefing, where all details of the tour will be explained. This is followed by the handover of the motorbikes and then the welcome dinner.

Arrival of our Motorbikes

Ready to start the Welcome Briefing

Nicolas, one of our Tourguides welcoming our guests

Day 2: Alcalá de Henares to Soria

During the first night it rains cats and dogs, roads are partly flooded, but after breakfast it stops raining and all tour participants are looking forward to the first day of driving. This leads past the El Atazar reservoir through the "Pueblos Negros" in the Sierra de Robledal on narrow, winding and sometimes bumpy roads via Riaza and the typical small town of Burgos de Osma to Soria. We spend our lunch break in a typical Spanish restaurant with tasty pinchos in Majaelrayo.

Skyline Madrid

El Atazar & Jay

House in the Pueblos Negros - Black villages due to the dark slate used as building material

Happy

Relax

Day 3: Soria to Pamplona

Today our path leads us through the Los Cameros Natural Park via the La Rioja wine-growing region to Pamplona, the capital of Navarre and world-famous due to the annual bull runs. In the morning we ride on  winding roads with constantly changing vegetation through the mountains north of Soria to La Guardia. Here we make our lunch stop in a well-known bodega, where we fortify ourselves with regional delicacies with grape juice for the curves of the afternoon. 

We left the clouds behind.

Passing pineyards in Los Cameros.

At higher altitudes there are no more trees, but overwhelming views.

We continue in narrow gorges.

View over La Rioja wineyards.

Just arried for lunch.

Enroute heading Pamplona

Day 4: From Pamplona to the Coast

Today is rest day. A part of the group goes to Bilbao on their own to visit the Guggenheim Museum, the rest decides to ride their motorcycles through mountainous narrow streets to Donostia / San Sebastian. In the evening we will go together to a typical Spanish bar / restaurant where we will taste the regional specialties.

Tourgudie starting to get in contact with locals.

Bikers heading to the coast.

Finally reached the sea.

Playa de la concha.

Ready for dinner.

Day 5: Pamplona to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Our journey continues, from now on always heading west to reach Santiago de Compostela in some days. Curves without end, through vineyards and overgrown hills. Sometimes up, sometimes down and again and again fantastic views. In the afternoon we reach Haro, the capital of the Rioja wine region, then we continue to the still medieval-looking town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, with its historic cathedral.

First refuling stop - water.

View into Rioja region.

On track.

Haro

Gear care - boots.

It is so nice.

Inside the Parador

Day 6: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Cevera de Pisuerga

Wonderful weather today, we follow in the footsteps of the pilgrims. First along the river Ebro, the longest of the Iberian Peninsula, with fantastic views and a wonderful cascade waterfall on the way. At noon, Bernhard awaits us with the first Edelweiss Picnic at the Santuario Montesclaros. Afterwards, we continue winding through wooded valleys over hills to the eastern foothills of the Picos de Europa, which await us tomorrow. On the terrace of the Parador in Cervera de Pisuerga we end the day's ride with a magnificent view.

At the beginning across the pilgrims' bridge at Santo Domingo de la Calzada

The Ebro Gorges

At the cascades

Is this a monk from the monastery of Sanuario de Montesclaros?

No, it's Bernhard with the prepared picnic.

Apre ride

Day 7: Cevera de Pisuerga to León

Today we go to the Picos de Europa, many also call them the Alps of northern Spain. From Cervera de Pisuerga we wind on more and more winding roads, which also become narrower and narrower into the gorge of the Rio Cares. At the end of the street we have to park the motorcycles and then continue on foot. One of our participants also treats himself to a short swim in the very cold mountain stream. After lunch, we return to the often single-lane road out of the valley and then reach Leon via Riano.

First view to the Picos de Europa.

Getting closer.

Trail along the Rio Cares.

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Tough guy.

A little shower is enough for Bernhard to keep cool.

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Back on road.

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Looking back, last chance.

In Leon

Day 8: León to Villafranca del Bierzo

On the way to Villafranca, countless impressions and wonderful roads await us again. Unfortunately, it rained during the night and the clouds hang low. Therefore, the partly wet and slippery road in the fog of clowds is very demanding. Towards afternoon the conditions improve and it becomes a very nice day of riding. As it was a bit cooler today, some of our guests look forward to the parador's own spa area with sauna, whirlpool and swimming pool.

Day 9: Villafranca del Bierzo to Santo Estevo

We have to move on, when we arrive today we still have one night ahead of us and then we reach the destination of our trip, Santiago de Compostela. It goes through the area of slate mining in Spain. First through remote villages and old mining sites, then through the industrial ones. At noon, an excellent picnic awaits us at a viewpoint. Afterwards we ride on winding roads through mountainous forests and vineyards to finally reach Santo Estevo.

In traffic jam, unbelivable.

Ready for picknick by Nicolas?

Rapunzel

Santo Estevo de Ribas del Sil

Day 10: Santo Estevo to Santiago de Compostela

Last stage to the pilgrimage destination. Again it has rained during the night and the narrow roads are a bit slippery. We start in the fog, get over it and then have to go through it again. It's like a fairytale forest here, these scenes are really overwhelming. The last stretch to Santiago de Compostela is soon done. On the way to our Parador, we wind our way through countless pilgrims on our motorbikes. After parking and changing clothes, we mingle with pilgrims from all over the world and explore the area around the cathedral.

Through misty forests

Kathedrale / Catedral de Santiago

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Galician singers in traditional costume

Builders' basic equipment for the private Way of St. James

Day 11: Cabo Fisterra - the end of the old World

Some of the group will go to the "end of the world" today - Fisterra. Others will stay in Santiago de Compostela and explore the city. Here, apart from pilgrims and the cathedral, there are many other historic buildings, museums and interesting parks.

View of Fisterra - on the horizon

Fisterra - At the end of the then world - when no one knew of the existence of the American continent yet

Impressive trees of all kinds, here a gigantic eucalyptus tree.

View to the old town from the park

Inside the Cathedral

Day 12: Santiago de Compostela to Verín

Portugal awaits us today on our first of three stages back to Alcala de Henares. After a motorway stage, we head into the interior of Portugal. The road surface seems even more grippy here. On winding roads we enter the Peneda Geres National Park, where spectacular landscapes and the monastery "Santuario de Nossa Senhora Peneda" await us. After lunch, we continue as before until we finally reach our accommodation at the foot of Monterrei Castle in Verin.

Along the coast heading Portugal

In Portugal

Looks like Jurassic Park

dangerous animals

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Escape route

Santuario Nossa Senhora de Peneda

Monterrei - Verin

BOOTBEER 

Day 13: Verín to Salamanca

On the penultimate day, we have to go to Portugal again to enjoy the fantastic curves over hills and mountains on the N103 to Braganca. Here on the hill there is a citadel as well as the somewhat strange Domus Municipalis. We continue on winding roads to the border river Duero, where we re-enter Spain. Now it becomes flatter again, but even these landscapes have their charm. In the afternoon we reach the world-famous university city of Salamanca.

Citadel

Domus Municipalis - pentagonal assembly hall with a right angle

Border crossing - Rio Duero

Oak forests - where the Iberico pigs thrive

Cathedral of Salamanca

Day 14: Salamanca to Alcalá de Henares

The last day of riding has begun. Tonight we will end our journey of just over 3500km in Alcala de Henares. The weather, apart from a few drizzles and some fog, was optimal for motorbike travel. We start from Salamanca via Avila, a city with an impressive city wall, passing the monumental monastery El Escorial in direction towards Madrid. For the last time we enjoy the wonderful roads in a varied landscape with its curves over hills and mountains. In the evening we say goodbye to our guests at a final dinner together.

Avila

El Escorial

last turns

Madrid in sight

Farewell Dinner

It was a pleasure to spend this time with you.

Bis bald / Hope to see you soon.

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